You can see the castle from nearly everywhere in Frigiliana – all you have to do is look up! El Castillo sits at the very top of the mountain on which the spectacular white village has grown over many centuries. “The only way is up”, as they say, which couldn’t be truer if your destination is El Castillo. It would also be true to say that our walk to the top of the mountain was the highlight of our holiday!
Category Archives: Photography
Flowers and Fields in the Evening Sunshine (Around Frigiliana, Spain))
The setting sun cast a warm glow and made it a glorious walk…
“Ice Cold in Alex”
Desperate for exercise and excitement, I convinced Chris it would be a good idea to go on the gorge walk from Frigiliana to neighbouring Nerja (Southern Spain). He wasn’t too keen at first as it was an exceedingly hot day and it was the hottest part of the day when we set out. Of course he was right – “Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun” – but I was yearning to go and he didn’t have the heart to ruin my pleasure.
Before long the sweat streamed off our brows. The bottles of cold water I carried in my rucksack became tepid; the can of Lidl’s fake Coke was never going to be as good as ‘The real thing’, even straight from the fridge, and it proved to be much worse than anticipated in its warm state; and the sandwiches went limp and lifeless. The thing that kept us going was the memory of an ice-cold beer, served in a frosty cold glass, from the old taverna at El Molino de Acette (or “Antonio’s bar” as we call it). As we made our way down the gorge we talked with relish about that cold beer… and I don’t even drink! Not normally, unless it’s boiling, and then I like the first glug from a glass or bottle of ice cold beer.
“If Antonio invites you into the shed to see his avocados again, what will you do?” Chris asked.
“I won’t fall for that old trick again,” I assured him, “just don’t leave me alone with him”.
“I won’t, but he did serve good beer – didn’t he?” Chris salivated.
We didn’t follow the dry riverbed all the way down to the sea – Antonio’s Bar is about a mile and a half from the outskirts of the hillside village, but it is a long way up. Hot and thirsty we trudged up to the bar by the roadside and a pretty young woman brought us two cold beers served in two cold glasses. Antonio must have retired. The glasses were not quite as cold, nor was the beer quite as good as Antonio’s; nevertheless we had that “Ice Cold in Alex” moment… (hope you remember the film with John Mills and Silva Simms, and the long awaited beer they had promised themselves at the end of their gruelling wartime adventure in the desert) and I was spared having to inspect the former owner’s avocados.
San Isidro Day
Yesterday was San Isidro Day, a public holiday, and a cause for great celebration in this part of Spain. Purely by chance (we were looking for somewhere to park) we found that we were in the perfect spot to catch the beginning of the procession. Here are the best of my photographs and a piece from a publication called “Explore Nerja”, which gives a bit more information about the festival.
Nerja thanks San Isidro
The day dedicated to San Isidro, patron saint of farmers and laborers, is a colourful and popular affair where you’ll see many of the things that you’d associate with picture postcard Spain. Women in vibrant flamenco dresses and men riding beautiful Andalusian horses dressed in their finest traditional clothes with wide rimed cordobes hats are everywhere, giving visitors the best chance of the year to see such a sight in the town.
The day revolves around local farmers giving thanks to San Isidro and asking for good fortune in the coming year.
Isidore the laborer was a man born in Madrid in 1070 who was known for his compassion to animals and the poor up until his death at the age of fifty nine. He was canonized in 1622 by Pope Gregory XV and is a figure celebrated all over Spain and indeed the world from South America to the Philippines. Madrid took him to be the cities patron saint and each year puts aside the 15th of May to honor him as do many spanish cities, villages and islands.
In Nerja the celebrations begin the night of the 14th with the party starting at the Nerja Caves at around 21:30 however this is just a precursor to the next day. On the 15th the day begins with the religious aspects of the event. A mass is given in the church of El Salvador on the Balcón de Europa at 11:00. This typically includes performances from the Peña Nerjeña choir and locals will make offerings to the saint. This is followed by tributes in front of the church by a number of local groups. From here, the procession or Romeria de San Isidro begins. A statue of the saint is put on a simple cart normally decorated by flowers and pulled by oxen to the Nerja Caves. It’s accompanied by hundreds of people from the town including carriages, carts, horses, oxen and tractors with local farmers coming in from neighboring villages. All are brightly decorated for the occasion which more often than not enjoys perfect weather.
The procession is approximately 3km long and can take three to four hours to reach its destination. It generally reaches the caves at around 14:30 with a formal timetable of events starting an hour or so later with various awards given to horsemen, carriages and floats. From here the party begins, going on well into the night. The evening will start off with a relatively traditional feel and slowly move over to more modern music with one big, open air, dance floor.
It’s worth knowing that during the two evenings of the 14th and 15th there is a regular bus service operating to and from the caves. Times for these are not set in stone but usually buses are operating between 22:00 until 07:00 on the evening of the 14th and from 10:00 until 01:30 on the 15th, so theres no need to stress over designated drivers and parking if you want to take full advantage of the party atmosphere. If you’d like to see the San Isidro parade you’ll find it’s an ideal excuse for a quick getaway. Why not take a look at our rentals pages and maybe you’ll find a great deal covering the festival period.
Events Timetable
Friday 15th May
- 11:00 Mass in the El Salvador Church on the Balcon de Europa.
- 12:00 Performances outside the church followed by the procession or Romeria.
- 14:00 Arrival at the caves.
- 15:30 The “Verbena” (open air dance) begins at the Caves.
- 17:00 Prizes awarded to procession participants.
- 18:30 The Verbena continues.
- 00:00 Midnight – End of the Verbena
– See more at: http://www.explorenerja.com/fiestas/san_isidro_in_nerja.htm#sthash.kdRC6uhY.dpuf
Frigiliana
At every turn on the cobbled streets of Frigiliana there is something to take your breath away – colourful window-boxes, secret alleyways and courtyards adorned with blossoming trees, tiled doorways and doors of all colours against white walls. No wonder it is noted for being one of the prettiest villages in Spain.
Ice Creams in Nerja
Well, you have to have an ice cream when in Nerja….
Bienvenido a España!
Chris should have been a travel agent. He knows all the tweaks and loves finding bargain fares and excellent accommodation at the best value for money prices, which is why I always leave the arrangements to him. This trip was no exception.
Our cheap Ryanair flight from Bournemouth to Malaga was absolutely fine (and who really needs more than ten kilos of luggage anyway?). Incidentally, my new lightweight case was so lightweight that the zip broke but, fingers crossed, it will remain steadfast on the flight back (so long as it doesn’t have to be put into the hold with other cases pressing against it!). Our friend and neighbour Alan, who is with us on holiday, was met off the plane by a fit Spanish lady who invited him aboard her wheelchair and speed-walked him (and us – we jogged along beside them) through Passport Control, Baggage Reclaim and Customs. She carried on to the “On the Record” (or something like that) car rental counter where we had to pick up the car Chris had pre-booked. He had been so thrilled that he found car hire for under fifty pounds… The unexpected excess insurance was nearly three times the amount of the car hire!
But never mind, now we’re here on the outskirts of the beautiful white village of Frigiliana, just three miles from Nerja and the sea. A local goatherd takes his goats past our cortijo twice a day and it’s rather pleasant to hear the tinkling bells around their necks – very countrified and quaint. Roses grow on the walls and ripe lemons hang from trees in the garden… why don’t I just post some photos?
Swans on the River and a Cold Peacock
I was going to write about my day but I’m too tired so instead I’ll share some of the photographs I took yesterday…
Superman Wants You (But Keep it Under Your hat!)
My brother Robert, son of Supergran (and something of a superman in his own right) is a tad worried… He may be a fearless firefighter, a caring paramedic, a gifted musician, piano tuner and all-round good egg rolled into one but he has a little problem at the moment. Our mutual friend David (a big-shot in Dawlish and involved in Heritage Day) enlisted the help of keen cyclist Superman Rob to organise a special event – the Vintage Bicycle Parade.
“I’m a bit worried,” Superman Rob confided to me yesterday (don’t tell him I told you on my blog!) when we bumped into each other by the Brook, “because so far only five people have registered online to be in the Vintage Bicycle Parade. I’m counting on you and Chris to come. It will be great fun you know, but you must dress up and wear a hat – anything from the nineteen-twenties to the nineteen-fifties.”
“I’m a bit worried,” said Chris later when I arrived home and reminded him that we had promised to attend Robert’s event.
“I know you look funny in hats but you’ll have to bear it – we did promise…” I anticipated the reason for his concern.
“Well yes, that’s true, but it isn’t just that,” Chris explained, “I don’t have a vintage bike. I’ll look silly wearing plus-fours and a straw boater, especially on my new bike!”
“Nonsense!” I fibbed (and suppressed a chuckle as I visualised my husband with boater hat floating above his thick curly hair), “Besides, Rob says you can borrow one of his old bikes.”
We will be going to the Vintage Bicycle Parade (as part of Heritage Day) on the Green at Dawlish from 9.30 am on 31st May, so do please feel free to come along for a laugh. Better still, dress up and join in, and we can all laugh together. I think I may go as an Italian film-star – I wonder what Sophia Loren would have worn on a bike?
To register online for the event get in touch with Superman Rob on:- robertjporch@gmail.com – just pretend you heard about it on the grapevine! And please, don’t let Chris know I posted the photos of him as Harpo Marx… keep it under your hat!
A Dawlish Boy
The weather hasn’t been the best since my return from Australia; we are in the beautiful month of May yet the cold north wind still blows with great force and the rain still threatens; the spring blossoms are out, the bluebells have come early and are mostly gone (apparently there were two warm weeks while I was away). Nevertheless, fed up with hiding indoors, this morning Chris and I braved the elements and took a walk into the countryside. We went by way of St. Gregory’s Church and beyond the Newhay path to Aller Arch, then onward to the ford, where we often go of a summer’s evening to sit on the little bridge and dangle our hot feet in the cool stream that runs across the road. We had no such ambitions this morning – it was far too cold and we were rigged out in trainers, joggers and waterproof jackets – but we hoped for some bursts of sunshine along the way.
There were few people out walking on our route as we reached the church end of the town – an old lady coming back from the surgery, a simple man going to his job at one of the charity shops, a tall man and a little wire-haired dog wearing a coat (the dog came over to say hello while the man walked on – “You really are a dog-woman,” remarked Chris, who isn’t a dog-man).
We were at the lychgate by St.Gregory’s when the sun appeared and beckoned us into the churchyard; soon the sun went back in and we went back out but we were enlightened, albeit briefly, by the experience.
“It feels like I haven’t been here for a long time,” I said, “and I’m looking at things through new eyes…”
“Probably not since October,” Chris responded, “I expect it’s more to do with the weather than being away.”
I nodded, but I wasn’t entirely convinced.
We walked under Aller Arch, the top of which is part of the driveway to Luscombe Castle, and I remembered the day, many years ago, that Lady Hoare poured me tea in her drawing room – I had been there collecting material for preparatory paintings for a commission by the Barton Surgery. At that time I had a bad cold and when Lady Hoare passed away some short weeks later I feared I might have been responsible. I worried about that for ages until I met someone who knew the family and assured me that she had died from something other than my cold.
It was sunny at the ford, for a few minutes at least, then it rained and Chris and I had to put on our jackets again.
Back through the arch and by the entrance to the Newhay pedestrian path was a car. The window was open and I leaned close.
“Hello stranger,” I said.
Brian looked up and beamed. At the tender age of eighteen I used to work with Brian at Langdon Hospital.
“You’re always here,” I observed. “Every time we come for a walk to the ford we see you somewhere around here!”
“I know,” he said, “You can keep the beach and the town. I’m Dawlish born and bred and I just love to come out here.”
Brian got out of his car, gave me a big hug and shook Chris’s hand.
I tried to resist taking too many photographs on the way home – I know it’s boring for Chris having to stop all the time – but he said he didn’t really mind. He understands the artist in me and my affinity to this pretty little town (even though I’m Australian born and bred), and it is spring (even if it’s cold and rainy), and there were magical bursts of sunshine; and I had the excitement of seeing with fresh eyes, as if I hadn’t seen the place for such a long time…